![]() This was the first time it was made publically known and then months later the author was contacted by Disney News for more infomation for an article on Hidden Mickeys. Arlen wrote an article back in 1989 on Hidden Mickeys for WDW's Eyes and Ears (Cast Member weekly publication) in the parks. The first published sighting of a Hidden Mickey was made by Arlen Miller. Soon, it became a tradition, and as the word spread, Disney fans everywhere went on the search for Hidden Mickeys in Disney movies and theme parks. In designing, constructing or adding the final touches to an attraction, Imagineers subtly "hide" Mickey Mouse silhouettes in plain sight. ![]() one large circle with two smaller circled on top in the appropriate place, but Hidden Mickeys can take on many forms. Originally, it took the shape of a head and ears silhouette, i.e. A Hidden Mickey is an image of Mickey Mouse concealed in the design of a Disney attraction (ride, resort, etc.). If the TPS goes continuous from approx 10% to 90% then its probably fine.Hidden Mickeys started out as inside jokes among the Walt Disney Imagineers. Outside of these there is the vehicle speed sensor and throttle position sensor which you mention but I think they throw codes if bad. If you give me a dropbox link or email I can send the pages if you don't have them. If you can find one of these wires in the center console you can trace it back to the proper ecm connector behind the glove box and probe the proper pin while wiggling and shifting even driving. The switch grounds the ECM terminal so as you press it, it should toggle between 0v and (5v or 12v). The wire colors may be different on your year but the circuit should be the same. The circuit is a single wire which goes from the ECM E12.14 (blue-white) to the button SW, and then (white-black) to a junction block in the center console and then to a connector and to ground. Since it gets moved all the time it may have a bad SW or wire. The O/D main SW is the button right on the shifter. I don't think this circuit could cause a shifting problem but it is listed as part of the things to check. If the lamp goes on and off, the circuit is OK. The O/D OFF indicator lamp is on the dash and the one wire circuit goes from the battery thru the alternator and AM1 fuses, the ignition SW, a 10A fuse in the driver side junction box and then to the lamp and the ECM E12.20 (green-yellow). In the diagnostic pages DI-175 there are a few things listed for failure to shift from 3rd to O/D:Ģ) 3-4 shift valve (I think one of the solenoids inside tranny)ģ) O/D brake (I think maybe this is the lockup clutch inside torque converter) ![]() The FSM I have is 2002, but I have found it useful for a 1998 except maybe wire colors. There is an outside chance it is maybe an intermittent or bad electrical connection controlling the O/D. They aren't super difficult to remove and clean/test but you do have to drop the pan. Then again it could be the solenoid/valve for that. It tries to lockup but the clutch is slipping so it backs off. Your mileage and description might suggest a failing lockup (O/D) clutch in the converter. On a different vehicle I would say your vacuum controlled shift actuator is bad, but I don't think this car has that.
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